If you’re into beer writing/news/periphery enough to be
reading this blog, chances are you’re savvy enough to have caught some of the
hubbub surrounding the Brewers’ Association’s “Craft Vs. Crafty” proposition
late last year. It was a bold statement that
drew a distinct perimeter around the craft beer camp, clearly delineating who’s
in & out of that camp based on specific criteria. There was a lot of backlash to that
statement, & many basically likened the Brewers’ Association to a Caesar,
giving a thumbs up or thumbs down that may seal the fate & determine the
identity of pretty much every brewery in America (at least partially American,
anyway).
The fervor has largely died down, but with time I’ve found
myself thinking more & more about the BA’s move. In my mind, I’ve mulled over whether I should
share my opinions on it, but hesitated because the story has been relatively
cold; most of the commentary has come & gone, I didn’t want to come across as a day late
& a dollar short to the public forum.
But it gnawed at me. Each day, I
see “craft beer” touted more & more as a selling point by those getting in
on the game. I drive by a retail
distributor each day with a sandwich board on its sidewalk that reads “Craft
beer here” (I’m probably paraphrasing).
What breweries are listed on the sign?
Goose Island, Kona, Landshark, & Magic Hat. 84 Lumber is throwing a “Craft Brew Fest” –
yes, that’s what they’re calling it – in a few weeks. Who’s atop the list of breweries in
attendance? Magic Hat. In case you were guessing at my point in
mentioning these, all the breweries listed so far do not meet the BA’s
standards for a craft brewer.
Why do I care? It’s
all about the quality of the beer, right?
As usual: yes & no. I don’t
condemn or condone a beer based on who owns or makes it. Goose Island Bourbon County Stout is still
one of my top TWO favorite beers, despite the fact that they’re now owned by
Anheuser-Busch InBev. Far from screwing
them up (as many predicted), A-BInBev seems to have done pretty well by Goose
Island, allowing them continued creative control & release of some really
well-done niche styles. Conversely, as
many great craft breweries as there are - & there are many, many great
craft breweries – there are too many mediocre to straight-up bad breweries in
that circle, too. The craft label does
not equate to a level of quality, necessarily, & there are exceptions on
both sides of the line. BUT, I generally
feel that it correlates, & I can count on one hand the number of true craft
beers I’ve truly regretted drinking.
What I really care about is that craft beer is hot right now,
& thus more are trying to jump on the bandwagon. I don’t blame those who want to get in on the
game, & the public’s exposure to more quality, small, independent brewers
is good for the industry as a whole. Too
many who’ve jumped in, however, appear to have a weak grasp of who it is
they’re representing with the “craft” moniker.
What doesn’t help, also, is that too few consumers are aware of what the
label means, either. “You know it when
you see it”, right? Maybe. One of the BA’s biggest beefs with big
breweries who present craft-adjacent brands is the lack of transparency in
branding: few bottles of these “crafty” brands indicate that they’re made by one
of the big boys. It may be cynical, but
it’s not hard to figure out why – people want to buy craft because they think
it’s an alternative to the multi-national corporations, & the big guys want
to conceal where they’re made because it’s less favorable to the market they’re
trying to capture. Sure, some consumers are
in the know, but many aren’t who might actually care.
I can understand the points of the critics who poo-pooed the
BA’s line-drawing, but I also understand why the BA feel they have an imperative
to draw that line. Craft beer means
something, something specific & distinct.
Many are uncomfortable with the term because it’s either too vague OR
too specific – Sam Adams: IN; August Schell: OUT, for instance. Many simply say they favor “good beer”,
regardless of politics or status. And
make no mistake: the craft designation has become a political signifier. It bears less reflection on the quality of
the product than the process by which it’s made & who controls it
financially. Again, craft beer doesn’t
automatically mean *good* beer, though I’d personally assert that the
overwhelming majority of good beer fits under the craft criteria. It doesn’t define form, just like “indie
rock” doesn’t dictate a specific sound.
Sure, you know indie rock when you see it. But is it truly independent, or does it just
sound/look/taste like the little guy?
As can happen sometime, I’m getting a little long-winded
& may have bitten off more than I can chew with this topic. Plenty more related thoughts to follow, to be
continued. Politics or no, you can’t go
wrong with drinking what you like. But
there’s nothing wrong with thinking about what you’re drinking.
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